2018 Chardonnay Caliz, Kellerei Kurtatsch, Alto Adige

The name Caliz apparently derives from the Latin terms calix (calyx) und calx (limestone). Caliz grows exclusively on light gravelly soil with a high share of limestone at 250–500 m. The yield is reduced to 65 hl per hectare (modest for the region). Fermented in tank and aged on lees in large oak.

Inviting, rather subtle aroma of creamy citrus with just a hint of spiced pear that I associate with lees ageing. There’s fresh melon, too. Ripe lemon on the palate, clean and crisp and given texture by the lees ageing in big oak – but no oak flavour. This has the hallmark combination of the region: ripe fruit giving sweetness in a dry wine and zesty freshness, with a dry, slightly stony finish from the specific site. This would make a great house wine (and apparently it is for HH&C’s buying director Siobhán Astbury).

Julia Harding in www.jancisrobinson.com, 27th July 2020
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