2017 Volnay 1er Cru Champans, Domaine Blain-Gagnard

This comes from very old vines, which had held up well against the 2016 frost. Yield was reduced, however, in 2017 by challenging weather during the flowering. Carefully judged, limited extraction during fermentation – achieved by limiting punching down, and favouring the pumping-over of juice – has resulted is an impressive wine of intense concentration. Colour is impressively deep, with aromas rich and expressive, flavours showing lovely fruit within a medium-rich structure (for drinking 2020-2028+).