2016 Meursault Les Clous, Olivier Leflaive Frères

Another hillside vineyard with tiny production in 2016, this Les Clous comes from two parcels: a younger plot (planted in 1979) that gives dynamic fruit and lively freshness, and a second – planted in 1904 – bringing depth, complexity and power. The combined effect is an astonishing wine. Les Clous is never a voluptuous, fat Meursault style, rather one where elegant, satiny textures combine with fine, lifted, white peach and citrus flavours. This has spirit and verve, the finish being fresh and long (for drinking 2019–2024+).