2018 Meursault Les Clous, Olivier Leflaive

This comes from high-lying vines on Meursault’s slope, uphill from 1st Growth Gouttes d’Or. Exclusive to HH&C, just 6½ barrels were made, of which one was new, and two had seen a previous vintage. Partly sourced from a 110-year-old vineyard, partly from vines averaging 30+ years in age, it is pale lemon in colour, with lively, intense fruitiness on the nose. This is Meursault of pure, stony concentration, with supple fruit and racy, vibrant aftertaste. It’s a thrilling wine which builds to a tremendous finish (for drinking 2021-2026+).