2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Murgers des Dents de Chien, Domaine Françoise et Denis Clair

A “murger” is a pile of stones that a vigneron creates when clearing a patch of land in order to plant it. This is a strenuous task, made more disagreeable when the stones are as sharp as dog’s teeth, as experienced here. This is one of the village’s top Premier Cru sites, lying close to the Montrachet hillside. It is thanks to the plantation of these sites – En Remilly (below) and this one – by the Clair family and other growers, that Saint-Aubin has progressed so much in recent years. One very old vine-block, aged 80 years, has other parcels beside it, aged 20 and 35 years. All benefit from excellent exposure to the sun, gentle breezes and freedraining soils. Aromas here are discreet, complex and fine. The palate is crisply intense, with a persistent thread of complex fruitiness extending all the way to a vibrant finish (for drinking 2020-2025+).