2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc, Domaine Marc-Antonin Blain

These grapes come from a single plot named Les Voillenots, planted in 1976 by his grandfather. The old vine-roots penetrate deep down into fissures in the limestone bed-rock, bringing exhilarating character. “The balance of natural sugars and acidity was excellent in 2020,” Marc-Antonin told us, “but the wines needed to be nourished, so I stirred the lees every two or three weeks, through to the Spring.” Colour is green-golden, aromas ripe, open and fine. Palate is richly built, with excellent fruit concentration (for drinking 2022-2026+).