Domaine des Lambrays, Morey-Saint-Denis
2016 Burgundy En Primeur
The Clos des Lambrays dates from 1365, the Domaine now being housed in beautiful old buildings in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis. The main vineyard covers 8 hectares of a single Grand Cru. Although not quite a monopole (a vineyard in single hands) this is a very large holding of Grand Cru for Burgundy, and allows the estate to eliminate young vine production, or anything unripe or caught by the rain, from its top bottlings.
Vineyard and wine-making have been the responsibility of Thierry Brouin here for many years. However, as retirement for Thierry looms, he has been joined by Boris Champy, who we believe will carry the flame with great skill (his training included long stints with the Jean-Pierre Moueix family, in Bordeaux and at Dominus in Napa, before moving to make wine in Burgundy).
With these wines, a gentle winemaking approach and meticulous attention to detail allows vineyard character and grape quality to shine through. It is customary for a high percentage of the grape bunches to be put into the vats whole, with stalks attached. Wines made this way are usually paler in colour than those which are de-stemmed (as some colouring matter attaches itself to the stems). There are striking benefits, in particular two signature characteristics of Clos des Lambrays: the silkiest of textures, with great aromatic complexity.
Good news from here is that while frost damage affected neighbouring Chambolle and Gevrey, Morey was spared, so the Domaine harvested a decent crop in this superb 2016 vintage.