Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny
2016 Burgundy En Primeur
Mugnier’s wines are now greatly admired and loved. He tells us we were his first export customer. Indeed, we have been shipping his outstanding Premier and Grand Cru Chambolle-Musigny wines for over 30 years. His vineyard holdings in these appellations are minuscule, however, so there is always great difficulty sharing the allocations. Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale has been owned solely by his family for generations, but the vineyard was for many years let out for cultivation elsewhere. In 2004, he succeeded in claiming it back. He built a new winery beside his home, and the wine has gone from strength to strength ever since. “I like the reliable consistency of the Clos de la Maréchale,” says Mugnier. “Musigny is great, Amoureuses is exciting, but Maréchale is my favourite vineyard.” With Clos de la Maréchale being nearly 10 hectares in size, allocations are usually not so tight, however only 60% of a normal crop was produced in 2016.
On wine-making, Mugnier explains: “All my wines are made in exactly the same way – fermentation, use of wood, time in barrel. Any difference must come from the place, the age of vines, the location: each wine must be the expression of something that comes from nature.” He adds: “I like to be not more than two hand-shakes away from the people who drink my wines.”