Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley, Volnay
2016 Burgundy En Primeur
With Thomas Bouley’s arrival to help his father Jean-Marc, this Domaine has rocketed into a rarefied quality zone occupied by Volnay’s greatest estates. The wines here get better and better each year, as Thomas gains more experience and understands even more deeply the nuances of the vineyards and wines with which he is working. The estate has several parcels of old vines, and some superbly placed First Growths. We find beautiful, glinting ruby-red colours (nothing violet or black), carefully judged extractions, intelligent inclusion of whole cluster bunches, and judicious, minimal use of new oak barrels.
2016 was a challenging season for Thomas, with the April frost dramatically taking its toll in many of his plots (he made no Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées, for example). As a result, volumes of many of the fol-lowing wines are tinier than ever. Quality here is stunning, however, following on from the also-excel-lent 2015s. We came away from our tasting with Thomas thrilled and exhilarated by his 2016s, which have exceptional energy, freshness and brightness, coupled with beautiful ripeness. Lovers of classic Volnay and Pommard who do not yet know Thomas’ wines can do no better than make selections from the following, but we encourage you to do so quickly, as availability is seriously limited.