2020 Château Monbrison, Margaux

This has been family-owned for 99 years, since 1922 – with a new generation, Alexandre, joining her father Laurent Vonderheyden, from 2018. She told us: “2020 was a complicated year, with 4 inches of rain falling over 3 days at one point, meaning we couldn’t go into the vines. But the summer turned really hot.” For the first time since 2011 the Cabernet Francs reached superb ripeness, so they represent 9% of the final blend, along with 74% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot. The wine is ageing 18 months in oak barrels, of which 40% are new French oak, with 2% in clay amphoras. This is vibrant ruby-purple of medium depth, the nose being open, opulent and fresh. The palate shows classic balance between well-rounded structure, fruit intensity, gentle tannins and lovely length (for drinking 2026-2035+).