Winemaking at Olivier Leflaive

Olivier is this year celebrating the 40th Anniversary of the foundation of his business. We have been a client uninterruptedly, ever since he and his brother Patrick began together, in 1984. Many wines come from their own domaine, and an increasing number from vineyards which they manage throughout the year, including the picking. Long-term winemaker Franck Grux has retired. After a two-vintage hand-over, overall responsibility for vineyard-management and wine-making has passed to the highly talented Solène Panigai, aided by long-serving Philippe Grillet. They and the teams are tightly focussed on the identities of each village and plot. They are severe in side-lining not only less-than-perfect grapes on the sorting tables, but also any barrels which do not merit inclusion in their finest selections. Thanks to our long-term links with this family business we have privileged, early access to many of its rarest, best-value and finest wines – several being exclusively reserved for HH&C.

The 2023 Growing Season

After a mild winter and early Spring, vines came into leaf in early April. Mercifully there was no damage from spring frosts, this year. The flowering began in late May, going through speedily and well. This is a crucial moment, as successful flowering allows the grapes in a given bunch to reach ripeness together. High temperatures during June, with regular rainfall, brought a spurt in growth, while also requiring vigilance, to prevent fungal disease developing. Chardonnays withstood the pressures well, however some Pinots – where yields were generous – saw spots of mildew forming. Careful sorting of the bunches would be essential, in vineyard and winery. The summer was capricious, with spikes of heat and some storms. The year proved to be the hottest on record, surpassing 2022. Choosing the harvest dates, plot by plot, became vitally important decisions, and the start-date was advanced to 1st September, lasting till the 16th. The days were very dry and hot, so at Olivier Leflaive picking took place from early morning until 1.30pm, so that neither grapes nor pickers would over-heat. Fruit or the juices often needed cooling, on arrival at the winery.

The Style of the 2023 Whites

Alcoholic degrees are varied, between 12.3% for Aligoté, and 13 or 13.5%, for Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault. Acidities are mild but balanced. The secondary, malolactic fermentations – when the relatively sharp malic acid is transformed into milder, carbonic and lactic acids – happened speedily, or in some cases, like Saint-Romain, was partially blocked, to retain freshness. Gentle lees-stirring has enriched the substance and body of the wines. They show supple, intense fruitiness on the palate, expressing themselves with harmony and energy. Thanks to the good volumes, prices have come down significantly for all wines except the Bâtard-Montrachet, where volumes continue to be very limited.

Buying 2023 Olivier Leflaive En Primeur

This is an early opportunity to buy wines lying in barrel, and we are rewarded by being able to select our favourite cuvées at early-release prices. In turn, we offer you the chance to reap these same benefits, while stocks of the rarest and best wines remain available. Please let us know your wishes as soon as possible. The wines are offered in bond, excluding duty and VAT, these last being payable on shipment later this year, or early in 2025.