2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Murgers des Dents de Chien, Domaine Françoise et Denis Clair

A “murger” is a pile of stones that a vigneron creates when clearing a patch of land in order to plant it. This is a strenuous task, made more disagreeable when the stones are as sharp as dog’s teeth, like here. This is one of the top Premier Cru sites, lying close to the Montrachet hillside. It is thanks to conscientious work on sites such as this, by the Clair family and other growers, that Saint-Aubin has progressed so much in recent years. One very old vine-block, aged 80 years, has other rows beside it, aged 20 and 35 years. All benefit from excellent exposure to the sun, gentle breezes and free-draining soils. Lemon gold in colour, this is spicy and fresh, with volume in the mouth allied to fruit intensity, the finish being complex and lively (for drinking 2025-2030+).