Jéremie Huchet has emerged as one of Muscadet`s young stars: this single-vineyard, organically farmed, Melon de Bourgogne shows why. The 11 hectare Les Montys vineyard (which means “the gentle hills”) is a single clos, which overlooks the Marais de Goulaine nature reserve. It includes some parcels of very old vines planted between 1914 and 1926. Very pale lemon-green in the glass, aromas are taut and lime-scented, with notes of oyster shell. The palate has a stunning mineral quality, beautiful silkiness of texture (from extended, 18 month lees ageing) and a racy, tense, lemony finish. This is a thrilling example of Muscadet.