Author Archives: HH&C

2018 Les Parcelles Chardonnay, Réthoré Davy

This is beautifully expressive, unoaked cool-climate Chardonnay – both vibrant and generous, with citrus, white blossom and fresh bay leaves on the nose and a textured palate suffused with quince, lemon and a briney, grapefruit-zest finish. It’s from Christophe Réthoré’s 42-hectare estate in the heart of the Pays des Mauges, an area between Muscadet to […]

Cantina Kurtatsch, Sonntaler Alte Reben Vernatsch 2018 Alto Adige

16.5pts – Vernatsch aka Schiave/Tronllinger grown on sandy soils in Kurtatsch hills, at 300–400 m above sea level. 80-year-old vines. Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel with regular pumping over. Malolactic fermentation and five months’ maturation in old 6,000-litre Slavonian oak barrels. Tart and tangy but so juicy next to the much more austere Loire Cab […]

Dom de la Grosse Pierre, La Grosse Pierre 2018 Chiroubles

16pts – 100% Gamay Noir. East-facing, 4-ha vineyard at 350 m on deep granite soils. Vines average 45 years. Yields 50 hl/ha. Vinification without addition of SO2, 12 days’ maceration with remontage once a day, max 25 °C. All natural yeasts. Stainless steel and concrete tanks. No fining or filtering. Bottled March 2019. Cherry lip […]

2018 Lagrein, Kellerei Kurtatsch, Alto Adige

A wonderful example of northern Italy’s Lagrein grape – deep coloured and bathed in black cherry, spice, violet and slightly ashy mineral flavours, all carried by nimble tannins and Alpine freshness and energy (Lagrein’s tannins can be a bit coarse, so the velvet-smoothness here is all the more welcome). It’s a variety with fascinating origins: […]