16.5pts – Vernatsch aka Schiave/Tronllinger grown on sandy soils in Kurtatsch hills, at 300–400 m above sea level. 80-year-old vines. Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel with regular pumping over. Malolactic fermentation and five months’ maturation in old 6,000-litre Slavonian oak barrels.
Tart and tangy but so juicy next to the much more austere Loire Cab Francs tasted alongside. Spiky, delicious notes of caramelised cherries and vanilla pod and orange peel. Full of immediate pleasure. It made me smile! I could drink this any time. (TC)
Tamlyn Currin in www.jancisrobinson.com, 7th Oct 2019