Julia Harding in www.jancisrobinson.com, 27th July 2020
Grown on the lower hills above Kurtatsch. They write: ‘Lagrein is Alto Adige’s oldest grape variety. It flourishes best in the deep, warm soils in Bolzano (the suburb of Gries) and the South Tyrolean Lowlands (Kurtatsch) that are made up of clay and sand as well as gravelly deposits from rivers and streams that break through porphyry, granite, mica schist, and limestone.’ With Kurtatsch care in the vineyard (reduced yields) and the cellar (controlled fermentation and partial ageing in large oak barrels).
Very dark cherry red. Open, spicy and peppery on the nose, peppery black fruit. Lots of dusty pepperiness and zesty dark-red fruit on the palate, raspberry and mulberry sweet/tart intensity. Very fresh acidity, mouth-watering and maybe almost too fresh to be drunk on its own but would be great with a slightly oily meaty bolognese sauce or roast pork. Very fresh and full of lively fruit, zesty and a real palate-wakener. Tannins are fine and dusty and just right to hold the shape of the fruit. Full of life and energy.